Angelus (French)
Above: Angelus restaurant near Lancaster Gate, W2
Lancaster Gate has something of an image problem, not helped by being generally viewed as a busy, noisy roundabout with a huge and distinctly unattractive hotel in the middle of it.
Venture a few yards from the fumes, however, along Bathurst Street, and a rather more rustic scent than carbon monoxide might pervade your nostrils.
Mews’ in London nowadays have only the horsepower of four-wheel drives to evoke their original purpose: but the one behind Bathurst Street has a proper stables and riding school, complete with the aroma of hay and dung.Which, for diners outside Angelus, the lovely new ‘bistrot-de-luxe’ housed in an old pub on the corner, might come as something of a shock in the middle of London. A pleasant one, though, perhaps lending an even more feral scent to one of owner Thierry Thomasin’s superb wines.
Thierry is perhaps London’s most passionate and knowledgeable sommelier, and his first solo venture – named after a very fine St-Emilion château – has been a dream of his for years. He has recruited Olivier Duret to run the kitchen, and – on the three visits I have so far made – back and front of house are running smoothly.The room itself has been done out in a Belle Epoque style: comfortable and stylish, with a bar leading to a lounge at the back, and a spiral staircase leading to the joys of the cellar. I have not yet had the temerity to choose a wine from the list myself: not when Thierry is in the room. As my accountant once said to me, ‘why get a dog and bark yourself?’.
The food is definitely at the fancy end of the bistrot scale. Duret’s crème brûlée of foie gras is a dish which sounds distinctly dodgy but tastes divine, the crisp topping dotted with poppy seeds, atop a rich, smooth, creamy base. Thierry will be happy to suggest a sweet white: if you try the Sauternes that I had, you will be in heaven.
How to follow that? Well, the rabbit pie, complete with the flavoursome bunny’s liver, would be a good choice, perhaps with something red from the Rhône or the Languedoc.
Portions are not huge, but flavours are intense, and little saucepans of vegetables arrive to console the greedy.Cheeses are excellent. More to the point, they are another excuse to explore the wine list.
You might finish the rest of the Sauternes with a clafoutis made with griottines: sour cherries.And, as you stumble happily onto the pavement, the warm scent of wine and countryside in your nose, try to remember that you are in the middle of London, and mind the traffic. Bill Knott
Dinner for two, with lots of wine, around £100
Angelus, 4 Bathurst Street, Bayswater, W2 2SD
020 7402 0083