Philippa Holland
Society jeweller Philippa Holland studied the History of Jewellery at Sotheby’s in 2000 and is now becoming part of it, as Lucy Land discovers
Above: Philippa Holland photographed in Hillgate Village, W8, by David Brook
Philippa Holland admits that she finds it difficult to separate her work from the rest of her life. At first glance, the 28-year-old pretty blonde with piercing blue eyes and honey-coloured skin might seem like one of those annoying overachievers. She began designing in 2001 and her fine, nature-inspired jewellery bagged a cult following from the outset. For red-carpet affairs, Vogue fashion shoots, film wrap and birthday presents, celebrities and their friends started snapping up Philippa’s pieces in their droves. Her A-list fans include her friend Sienna Miller, locals Claudia Schiffer, Jemma Kidd and Tamara Mellon as well as other big stars such as Cameron Diaz, Elizabeth Hurley and Kylie Minogue (you get the picture).
Following a week holding private sales in Moscow and before heading off to Paris, the Hillgate Village resident meets me at her local haunt, 202 on Westbourne Grove, where I’m also introduced to her seemingly placid brindle whippet Zola, who is resting its head on her lap. ‘She’s had a busy morning,’ Philippa says by way of explanation before revealing the gruesome details of Zola having caught a squirrel in Kensington Gardens, which then clung onto the finger of a tourist trying to save the rodent. ‘There was blood everywhere,’ she says.
It’s no wonder her local park provides plenty of inspiration for her work: indeed, skeletons will feature in her A/W 08 collection; and acorns collected from KG have been electro-formed (a closely guarded technique) and cast in gold for her woodland charm bracelets. ‘There’s a spirit about Kensington Gardens that is old-fashioned and quite magical,’ Philippa enthuses. When she isn’t working from home or travelling abroad, Philippa often spends weekends with her family in Wiltshire, near Stonehenge, where she grew up. ‘The ancient mythology and folklore of the countryside has had a big influence on my jewellery design,’ she explains. ‘I use fairies and oak trees quite a lot – very English symbols.’ She says she is also greatly inspired by fairytale illustrator Arthur Rackham and by other classic children’s stories.
Philippa guides me through the jewellery that she is wearing; ‘This is what I call the fairy godmother from Cinderella.’ The 18ct gold disc pendant reveals a hand-engraving – by an Asprey’s engraver, no less – with a diamond wand and other diamonds dotted around. There’s also a simple bracelet with a Buddhist description (inside) – life is not a problem to be solved but an experience to be lived.
‘Quite often I’ll have personalised engravings for particular clients. I’ve started writing my own poetry and in time I would like to incorporate it into the jewellery.’ There are also rose gold twig-style earrings with diamonds and a matching ring. ‘Some of the less expensive rose gold you can buy on the high street is a bit of a funny colour – a bit too red. I prefer a light, pinky rose.’
In contrast to the subtle shades of her English woodland-inspired jewellery, a bright pink and green gem cocktail ring sparkles on her middle finger. ‘It reminds me of India where the colours are really intense, from the spices in the markets to the ladies in their saris,’ she says, simply. ‘My next collection will be more colourful.’
While in Jaipur, one of the world’s main stone-cutting centres, Philippa often bumps into other jewellers such as Pippa Small, William Welsted and Helene de Talliac. ‘There’s no competitiveness; we all get on,’ she says. ‘I love being able to travel. I’m going to India in January and Brazil after that – it’s all work-related. I can investigate a country for sales or production, or finding stones and materials.’
She has set herself high standards and as such has decided to keep all her production in England. ‘I think it’s really important to support the craftsmen in England; the quality is always very high here,’ she explains. ‘I’m always trying to source new craftsmen and different techniques in England. There are probably only two guys in England who are incredibly talented and work for the big jewellers like Van Cleef,’ she says. ‘I think there’s something lovely about knowing that the jewellery is inspired by England and also made in England – a fully English piece.’
As well as her business-related travel plans, training up her new assistant (‘she’s amazing’) and working on her next collection, Philippa is planning a private sale, the Jet Set Gypsy Bazaar, with friends including jeweller Zara Simon, Made in Heaven jeans boss Chloe Lonsdale, lingerie designer Kalita, handbag designer Melissa Del Bono and Hari yogawear designer Lainey Sheridan. ‘Everyone’s doing their own thing and the sales provide a chance for everyone to come together, get our friends round, have a laugh, and maybe sell some stock,’ she smiles. It isn’t hard to see why Philippa’s work is all-consuming; her holistic approach is refreshing – something that any stressed-out, high-achieving A-lister wouldn’t mind a piece of.
Philippa Holland’s jewellery is stocked at:
The Cross, 141 Portland Road, W11; 020 7727 6760
Astley Clarke, 6 Junction Mews, W2; 0870 850 5683
Or call Philippa directly on 020 7727 5301
Philippa Holland’s Notting Hill address book
Osteria Basilico, 29 Kensington Park Road, W11
‘Perfect for cosy dinners’
Clarke’s Restaurant, 124 Kensington Church Street, W8
‘Great food and they’ll also allow dogs’
Twenty8Twelve, 174 Westbourne Grove, W11
‘Their trousers are my new favourites’
Phoebe Carlyle, 8 Holland Street, W8
‘The best-fitting lingerie’
The Life Centre, 15 Edge Street, W8
‘Where I go for yoga’
Lambton Place Health Club, 3 Lambton Place, W11
‘Where I swim’
Candida French, 131e Kensington Church Street, W8
‘She has the prettiest flowers’