Olivia Rubin

Maida Vale’s hottest young fashion talent, Olivia Rubin, is celebrating a successful stint at London Fashion Week, being noticed by Vogue and impressing celebrity fans.
Nicole Rapaport went to meet her

When you meet Olivia Rubin it’s rather like stepping into a glamorous and somewhat exclusive parallel universe. A one-woman couture show. Tall and lithe with peroxide locks and impeccable dress sense, she ‘sticks out’, albeit in a good way, and I get the distinct impression that’s just how she likes it.

An up-and-coming fashion designer and one of Maida Vale’s bright, young things, I want to find out from Olivia where her fledgling label, Olivia Rubin, is taking her, and just how she juggles the business side of fashion.
At 26, Olivia has an impressive CV. Leaving school in 2000 with A-levels in English, French and art, she embarked on an art foundation course and then BA in Fashion Print at Central Saint Martins, famous for nurturing most of Britain’s fashion elite.

Her final collection was chosen for the college’s revered annual press show and was reviewed in numerous publications as one of the ‘standout collections’.
‘I’d always dreamt of going to Saint Martins because their students were producing clothes that were different; something new that nobody had seen before – in particular I noticed John Galliano. He is an icon – he stuck to his style from day one and has stayed true to it ever since; a trait that I admire and hope to carry through my own label.’
Olivia has harnessed her talents over the past decade. ‘When I was about 16, one of our art teachers at school introduced us to screen printing. It just clicked. By the time I reached A-level I really went for it. My whole project was based on fashion textiles and design. I knew then I wanted to make a career out of fashion. I started to gain real determination and belief in my talent  –  even though the end of year art prize was awarded to someone else!’

Scholastic glitches aside, Olivia Rubin is a fashion label to keep your eye on, providing the winning formula of sleek tailoring and quirky prints at mid-market prices. Her Spring/Summer 08 collection is inspired by construction wear with flashes of Eighties colour and graphic prints contrasting with subtle Sixties femininity.

Key pieces included a strapless ‘sleeve tie’ mini shirtdress, worn by Dannii Minogue and Reena Hammer, the bold brick print on silk jersey separates including tees, vests and dresses, chiffon playsuits and a shocking-pink swing jacket.
‘I like to create a simple silhouette as a canvas for colour, print and unique detail. My pieces are strong yet individual. I offer women an alternative to the ‘girly girl’ look; something slightly androgynous, that makes a woman feel in control and stand out from the crowd.

And her designs are indeed unique. Bold prints and block colours with exquisite tailoring really bring to life the feminine style with that slightly masculine edge. To date the collection has been admired and worn by the likes of Lily Allen, Tahita (from New Young Pony Club), Agyness Deyn, Kelly Osbourne – who happens to be a neighbour – and Sophie Ellis Bextor.

But without extensive business training, I wonder why Olivia chose set up shop solo, rather than putting in the groundwork at a fashion house first to learn the business ropes?
‘At first I did have a few doubts about the business side of fashion, having had no formal training,’ she explains. ‘You see so many designers fail because they have no idea about how to maintain a business, and ultimately fashion is a business. However, my creativity has driven me. I did a short business course last year at London College of Fashion to get to grips with the basics, and my dad is always willing to give me advice.’

‘I learned a lot from work experience,’ she continues. ‘I started young, learning basic pattern cutting skills at Jacques Azagury and Tristan Webber. Then I moved onto an internship at Alexander McQueen. Recently I’ve done freelance designing for All Saints, Jade Jagger’s Jezebel label, and had the most remarkable time working for John Galliano in Paris. But you don’t always feel like you have made your mark. I just thought “I can do this”, so I’m giving it all I’ve got.’

Lifelong Maida Vale resident and avid fan of W9, Olivia credits her happy childhood in the area with inspiring her creations. ‘Living in Maida excites me and inspires my designs because I love the atmosphere. The environment you come from shapes your ideas and mind. It feels like me. It feels like home.’

‘It has changed a lot. The big Tesco and estate agents on every corner do somewhat blight the landscape. And they axed the Post Office for a Baker and Spice!’ she says indignantly.

‘But there are the old treasures that never fail to please. I love a drink at the Waterway and a skinny latte at Raoul’s. And there is a fantastic restaurant on Boundary Road called Bhan Thai I simply can’t get enough of lately. It’s like a village here, very family orientated, yet young and hip.’
Olivia was at London Fashion Week last month presenting her Autumn/Winter 08 collection. Her signature brick print from her debut collection has been reworked along with new surrealist graphic prints of top hats and pocket watches. Designer labels that inspire her are Miu Miu, Marni and local stars Preen, however she agrees that money can’t buy style and tends to combine designer labels with high street names such as Topshop and H&M for a winning formula.

‘I also buy the mid-market designers like Marc by Marc Jacobs and See by Chloé. The casual smart look is more versatile. They create  collections that can be worn during the day or dressed up for the evening, but are not crazy prices – that’s the road I want to go down with my label. They also use a lot of colour, print and have an element of fun in their clothes – like me!’ She smiles. The fact that she believes she has the potential to be in the same league provokes awe and respect. Her tenacity is boundless.

‘It’s all so exciting. I’m proud of myself, but realise there is still a lot of hard grafting to do. I’ve put so much into this, and simply will not give up. Highlights of my year so far? Being called up by Colin McDowell to inform me I’d been short listed for the semi-final of Fashion Fringe, and getting Vogue editorial. My bible!’

At the risk of sounding schmaltzy, it’s clear that being a designer isn’t just about cooing over clothes. It’s a demanding career, requiring determination, self-belief, sheer hard work and the courage never to give in. And to hell with that blasted art prize, it looks as though there will be many accolades heading Olivia’s way in the future.
www.oliviarubinlondon.com